珠寶知識 :: 銀的金屬材質介紹 / Silver Properties

自從開始學習金工，銀這個材質就被大量的使用，除了銀與其他貴金屬（金、鈀、鉑、銠）相比起來價格比較經濟實惠，也因為銀有著非常大的柔軟度與延展性，因此相當適合做各式大型與金工技巧學習。

George Jensen魚盤 / Covered Fish Dish
George Jensen 知名的魚盤，就是銀匠利用手工將銀塊鍛敲，花費550～600小時，慢慢延展而成的，金屬中也只有銀才能達到這樣具延展性而堅固實用的效果。

當然在使用一種材料製作作品之前，瞭解材料是非常重要的一件事，不但有助於製造使用，也助於結合其他的應用。

銀由於價格昂貴，具有亮麗的銀白色光澤，外表美觀，化學性質穩定，具有較強的保值能力，因此隸屬於貴金屬之一，延展性僅次於金。純銀(99.9% pure)相當柔軟，為了增強其硬度及加工適性，並降低其熔點以方便加工，通常會製作成合金。最常用的銀合金為「925銀」(Sterling silver)，它是由92.5%的純銀和7.5%的銅所組成，純銀的熔點為960.5°C，925銀的熔點則為893°C。除了925銀，常用的銀合金還有950銀以及850銀等。

銀的原礦 / A Nugget of Silver

銀的歷史大概可以追溯至西元前，這個名詞慢慢出現在大量的歐洲古老書籍上，在那古老的時代，因為銀的潔白與明亮，所以也被月亮的圖形表示著，而後便有了各種零星的銀飾品的設計，包括銀幣和裝飾品。到了十六、十七世紀，金銀金屬工藝開始慢慢的成型，大量的銀開始被金工師父製造成各式的裝飾品與傢飾品，到了十九世紀時，在高級場合的餐桌上使用925銀製的餐具成了一股流行文化，也因而出現了許多銀具公司。

在1851年，Tiffany生產了以925銀標準製造的銀器，成為美國第一家使用此標準生產產品的公司，以925銀製成的首飾也開始風行起來。時至今日，百年以上銀飾設計公司除了Tiffany，還包括知名的George Jensen，兩者都因為卓越的設計與工藝而受到大眾的喜愛。另外現在如Chrome Hearts、Justin Davis、 Wolfman B.R.S.等品牌，則是因為受到明星藝人的喜愛，而成為知名銀飾品牌。

Tiffany的純銀餐具 / Silver Serving Pieces

而 Miss Maru© 選擇925銀為製作材質的原因，除了延展性高易於加工之外，也因為銀經過手工拋光之後，不同於一般電鍍商品的平板亮銀，而是有著溫暖與柔和如同月光的光芒，讓人深深地著迷著。特別是銀經過人的配戴後，隙縫處慢慢氧化變黑，而外露或突出處因為常與人體碰觸，保持一樣潔白的狀態，更是散發出與其他金屬不同的懷舊風味。而這些細細的變化都需要仔細的觀察，用心的珍惜，才能得到一件藝術品經由自己蛻變成不同風貌的美好。


Since I learned silversmithing, 'Silver' plays a very important role of making jewelry. It's because of silver's price(cheaper than other precious metal) and ductility(less than gold). High ductility of silver makes it can be forged into large functional objects, like bowls and pots. That's why many teachers choose silver as main metal to teach students know metalwork skills.

Before making any piece of work, I think it's important to realize the properties of metal chosen as material. It not only helps making jewelry, but also helps doing integration with other kinds of materials.

Silver has high economic value, shining surface, less reactive than most elements and been known valued as a precious metal. The ductility is only less than gold. Fine silver (99.9% pure) is generally too soft for producing large functional objects; therefore, the silver is usually alloyed with copper to give it strength. The alloy silver used frequently is '925 sterling silver'- containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. The melting point of pure silver is about 960.5 °C, sterling silver is 893°C. There're still other alloys of silver used usually '950 silver' and '850 silver'.

Silver's history has been known since ancient times. It is mentioned in the age-old books. Because of silver is white and shining, The symbol for the moon has been used to represent silver since ancient times. And later, silver was refined and coined in its pure form as money, and other kinds of accessories. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, silversmithing appeared. There were a lot of objects and ornaments that made by silversmiths and masters worked in family of jewelers. In nineteen century, sterling silver flatware became de rigueur when setting a proper table. There was a marked increase in the number of silver companies that emerged during that period.

In 1951, Tiffany used sterling standard to make products and became the first American company adopted United States Sterling Standard. At that time, sterling silver standard products became popular. To date, there's not only Tiffany that has hundred year history of making silver products, but also George Jensen; they're adored by the high quality of design and technique. There're many new brands such as Chrome Hearts, Justin Davis, Wolfman B.R.S. ...etc, are famous for entertainer effects these days.

Miss Maru© chooses sterling silver as material is because of it's high ductility and unique brilliance when polished. The brilliance of silver is so attractive and like moon light, not like plated-ones with flat gloss. As time pass through, silver will be oxidized and shows its ture color by wearing. It's really fascinating to have these changes made by myself. And as the years go by, silver is not only a metal, but also an art work which turns alive when it changes in front of us.