我愛的玻璃彈珠 / My Lovely Glass Marbles

Glass Marbles / 2007

玻璃

Glass

在2007年，非常幸運的可以接觸到”玻璃珠”這樣有趣的課程，並花了半年週日的時間學習。中間不但看到了拉絲玻璃，可以做到各種出神入化的美麗樣貌，也認識了許多厲害的老師跟同學。

本來課程主要是專注在”玻璃珠”的教學，但我一直以來都很喜歡玻璃彈珠，也看過大伯家裡，一顆顆國外帶回的繽紛彈珠，所以我不經意的問到老師，利用拉絲玻璃製作玻璃彈珠的可能性。而老師也非常厲害的信手拈來一顆圓潤晶瑩的彈珠，讓我內心頓時澎湃了起來，原來拉絲玻璃是可以做彈珠的！

當然經過瞭解，大部分國外做玻璃彈珠都是用吹製的方法跟設備為主，再來就是拉絲能做的彈珠尺寸會取決於火槍大小（火量），但我仍然非常高興的用了我的小噴火槍，做了幾顆小彈珠～

雖然以現在的技巧跟實力，還沒辦法做出如國外的高級技巧作品，但我想不斷的努力嘗試，東西一定會越做越好的，也許有一天，我的彈珠也可以需要刻上簽名來標明價值，也說不一定呢！

In 2007, I was so lucky to learn the lampwork beads class taught by Hsu Chin Lang at Kun's Crystal. I loved glass, it's so cute, lovely, clear, and special. Even if the class was focus on lampwork beads, I wanna learn how to make a glass marble. When I was a child, I saw many incredible foreign glass marbles in my uncle's house. I was fascinated by it. That's the reason why I'd loved to make glass marbles.

Then the teacher really shown me how to make a glass marbles with lampwork. Although it's inappropriate way to make glass marbles with lamp torch, I still do my best with it. I made several little glass marbles. They are really lovely.

Maybe I'm still a beginner of glass marble. I think I'll keep on making glass marbles until I can sign on my marbles and become somebody one day.

:: Miss Maru Mable sales at Old Stuff now ::

延伸：坤水晶 Kun's Crystal琉璃珠課程（由琉璃珠大師 許金烺Hsu,Chin Lang老師 親自教學）

追憶 / Remembrance Of Things Past: Memories

＜追憶、似水、年華＞系列之一。



＜追憶、似水、年華＞系列是我第一個設計的首飾系列，也是我大學的畢業製作作品。以一系列的概念做出發，用不同的媒材跟款式來表現－「追憶」、「似水」、「年華」三個名詞與狀態，以及對我的意義。整個系列都是以生活跟自己的想法為出發，展現佩戴者自我風格的想法為主，大概利用了一年的時間準備，半年多的時間學習臘雕製作技法，最後在台北的「紐約．紐約」做畢業展。


其中＜追憶＞是自己最喜歡的系列。

Remembrance Of Things Past: Memories/ Mar.2004
銀, 玻璃片, 相片
Sterling silver, Glass, Photo

＜追憶＞顧名思義，是以"記憶"為主題，並且將金屬和影像作結合而成的作品。上面的黑白肖像，都是我記憶中的面孔，雖然擁有之後必定會有失去，但卻永遠不可抹滅，不管是快樂的、痛苦的、辛酸的、溫暖的記憶，藉由著腦海中的影像，都將伴隨每個人走到生命的最後一刻。

而每個人的記憶與生命過程，更是讓自己之所以與眾不同、無法取代的原因，藉由著實體影像，我們可以更快的將記憶喚醒，也可以將記憶示人，將影像賦予自己與他人的感受作雙向連結，一如刺青般，首飾也可以展現自己獨特的自我風格和想法，而不單純的只是裝飾性的意義。

這也是我為什麼喜歡設計首飾的原因，當大家可以藉由我戴的首飾加深我的印象，或更認識我的時候，那種獨一無二感覺是最棒的了。

'Remembrance Of Things Past' is my first jewelry collection. There are three objects of this collection. Every object shows different meaning and experience which I felt and thought of the words ; memories, women and water, time and life. I took one year to prepare it, and about half year to learn wax carving, and had an exhibition at New York New York Mall in Taipei in the end.

'Remembrance Of Things Past: Memories' is my favorite object. I combined metal with portrait images which are all the memories of my pets. Even some of them were gone, I still love them very much and can't stop thinking of them. It's painful to lose them, but I don't deny that they gave me the happiest time of life. All we had will be gone, but the memories will last forever until we pass off.

That's why we can be different from others by having all kinds of experience of life and time. All changes make us grew up, and no one can take place of our own self. As the experience became images which can also recall all the memories and past easily, we can link up everyone through they see them. It's just like the influence of tattoo. It's not only an image but also a unique sign.

I love the function of jewelry and accessory which can connect people and life, therefore I chose them to be the media of my creations. It's an object, an ornament, a kind of art.., also a piece of life!

似水 / Remembrance Of Things Past: Women And Water

＜追憶、似水、年華＞系列之二。

Remembrance Of Things Past: Women And Water / Mar.2004
環氧樹脂, 金屬鍊
Epoxy, Chain

在我的想法裡，女人就像水一樣，有著千變萬化的多樣風貌，遇強則強，遇弱則弱。一會兒是溫柔潺潺的溪水，一會兒是頑固的巨大冰川，或是激動澎湃的浪濤...每個女人都自有她的美，每個年紀也都有不同的美，且大部分的美都不是外表的，而是內在那股強大的母性或是不屈不撓的堅強意念，也許外表柔弱、溫柔，卻在適當的時刻變成堅強的力量。

讓我最深深著迷的女人，就是亂世佳人中的「郝思嘉」（Scarlett），她美麗、堅強、熱情、對愛一無反顧、又充滿魅力，雖然也自私、太過獨立、倔強，卻一點都不影響我喜歡她的個性，女人就該這樣獨一無二，世人怎樣解讀一點都不重要。可「郝思嘉」是個虛構的人物，並無真實的形象，而在所有真實的女性當中，「瑪麗蓮夢露」（Marilyn Monroe）是一個非常有傳奇特質的女星，大家對她的印象都是性感、有女性魅力的，可是從我找到她小時候、年輕的照片看來，她曾經有清純、青澀的模樣，一個大家都沒有仔細尋找過的模樣。

於是，我將她這些多變的模樣，封在一個個透明如冰塊的結構中，一顆一顆如蜘蛛網般串聯起來，表現女人似水的特質。每一顆都是「瑪麗蓮」（Marilyn），每一顆也都不是「瑪麗蓮」（Marilyn），是一個曾經、一個影像，既是成長的面貌，也是美麗的面貌，有小、有少、有貌美如花、有慢慢衰老，但不可否認的是她精采的人生與帶給世人的感受，每一個片刻都是值得回憶的點點滴滴。

就像我們身邊接觸過的所有女人一樣，也許她們都不是世界上最美麗的女人，卻有一種不凡的特質與個性，在我們的心中永遠無法抹去。

In my opinion, women are like water. Water doesn't have any constant shape, it could flow tenderly in river; it could freeze hard like glacier; or it could be a billow dashed high by a storm. Water adapts itself to its environment, so do women. All women have their own beauty and characteristic, in every time, in every age, in every situation, women show different kinds of looks and bravery. The motherhood and inner beauty of women always can beat every thing and protect all of us.

The woman I admire most is "Scarlett" of "Gone with the Wind". She's so charming, beautiful, brave, enthusiastic..., but also selfish, obstinate, stubborn. But I still love her very much. She's so unique, and women should be unique, no matter what people think and look at. But "Scarlett" is fictitious, so I took "Marilyn Monroe" to be my Muse. She's a legend of sexy and desirable women. Even though she's image to everyone is a mature woman, I still can find the pictures of her youth age, a different look.

So I took the pictures of Marilyn's faces in a transparent ice cube shape, and linked like cobweb with chains. The pictures includes her young faces, mature faces, old faces..., every face is Marilyn, and every process is Marilyn. We can't deny the influence of time changes her face, but she's always glamorous in our memory.

Those faces are just like every woman on our side, like mother, sister, aunt, wife, daughter...,etc. Their faces will always in our hearts, and their behavior will influence us naturally and forever.

年華 / Remembrance Of Things Past: Time And Life

＜追憶、似水、年華＞系列之三。

Remembrance Of Things Past: Time And Life / Mar.2004
925 銀染黑處理
Oxidised Sterling silver

雖然已經是四年前做的作品，但歲月對於我的意義卻沒有變過。一直覺得人在社會中是不停被改變的，變的越來越世故、圓融、甚至浮華，所有的改變都是難以自覺甚至難以抗拒的，不能說絕對的好，也不能說絕對不好。就如同自山上落下的多稜角碎石，經過河流多年的沖刷侵蝕，成為圓潤的鵝卵石一般，在＂不得不＂的狀態下被改變。

對我而言，歲月的流逝跟年華的流逝，在程度上其實是不同的。歲月流逝的是時間，但是年華流逝的卻是天真單純，是一連串改變的過程，從最初的頑劣粗糙，轉變為圓潤光滑。

墜身主體是用銀來表現不同的紋理跟質感，包括粗糙與光滑，反映年華的流逝對我的影響。空洞部份則可依配戴者喜好綁繫任何物件，一如人用不同的想法和意念去反映自己的改變。

無論改變是好或是壞，都沒有任何人可以決定，但結果也早已悄悄的在自己的身上反映出來，無論一點一滴，都必須全然的接受。

即使我的內心，一點都不想被改變。

When the years go by, every one is always changed by some way and some how. Like rough and acuate stone, after washout from the river, it will become smooth and roundness. It happens spontaneously, naturally, automatically. We can't stop it or change it, even it changes us a lot and unconsciously. And after days and years, we suddenly find that we are different, we are not a child or be innocent any more.

It doesn't mean good or bad. It's a phase, a gradation of life. It gathers beauty and ugliness, and the must important part is what we face and go through.

That's what I feel of time and life, and I put all elements in this work . There are two textures of the body; one is rough, another is smooth. It explains the changes of time. There are also some holes on th body, every one can ties any different kinds of material on it. That's what I can show apart from another one.

I like ribbon, how about you?

我的偶像(一) / My Idols(1)

前陣子去一家知名琉璃公司面試時，面試的主管問了一個很有趣的問題，他問：「為什麼珠寶跟琉璃，兩者差別那麼大，會想來這邊應徵？」這時，我腦海裡出現的並不是問題的答案，而是一個問題的開始；

為何珠寶跟所謂的藝術品不是等號？

在我的觀念裡，我之所以選擇珠寶作為我的作品與專業的領域，是因為它能被賦予藝術品的意義，而不是一般人眼中奢侈品的定義。而我之所以這樣認為，是因為有許許多多的設計師，設計出了無數美麗的珠寶，而那些珠寶活生生的演譯出了珠寶既是雕塑品、藝術品、裝飾品、生活用品等等多樣精緻的面貌。也許是高中開始閱讀「珠寶界」雜誌，與大學時期翻閱許多國外金屬工藝家的作品之後，而有了這樣的觀念，但我始終認為，珠寶不應該被賦予奢侈品的定義，因為它的美麗是許多人心血的結晶，不只是被有錢人拿來作為一種炫耀的工具而已。

而下面介紹的＂珠寶＂領域設計師跟品牌，都是我的偶像。他們豐富的作品，我想不能說只有用＂錢＂堆積而已，其精湛的工藝與設計，絕對不是一般人要做就做得到的！


Elsa Peretti－我的啟蒙設計師

知名的Tiffany設計師之一，自高中從在雜誌上看到她的介紹跟作品之後，就開始嚮往起當Tiffany珠寶設計師的念頭。雖然她最知名的作品是Open Heart跟Bean系列，但我最喜歡的反而是下面的那款Bottle墜子跟Bone系列、Mesh系列。

尤其Bottle墜子的設計理念十分有趣，她是為了將自己喜歡的香水或是俯拾而得的花朵，可以隨時待在身上，而設計了這個Bottle墜子。

Bone系列當然是以＂骨＂的造型作為靈感的設計，但去掉了血腥與寫實的部分之後，取而代之的是流線與優雅的現代風格。
「優美的線條、優美的造型是永恆的」，這是設計師Elsa Peretti對自己設計的作品下的注解，而這也是她一貫的設計風格，事實也說明了這樣的設計，是經的起時間考驗的，自1974她加入Tiffany至今的設計作品便可以證明。

也因為她的作品影響，我始終喜歡流線多過於稜角，喜歡圓多過於方，取材自然的造形更是Miss Maru不可少的風格之一。

/產品圖片版權為Elsa Peretti所有/

Jewellery Theatre－獨特的珠寶設計品牌

由俄羅斯雙人設計師 Irina Dorofeeva與Maxim Voznesenskiy所創立的珠寶品牌，當初一逛到他們網站的時候，直感到不可思議，原來珠寶可以做的如此獨特而精緻。

他們的作品應該被稱做珠寶嗎？他們應該被稱做珠寶設計師嗎？我想他們被Moscow World Fine Art Fair 稱做jewellery artists，就可以顯示出作品的藝術表現遠遠大過珠寶的意義了。

而我也始終認為，珠寶是將天馬行空的想像，幻化成微小雕塑的一個產品。無論材質、價格、使用方式等等，都不應該受到限制。也許珠寶工藝會像所有舊時代的工藝技術一樣慢慢沒落，最後被大量機器生產的產品所取代，一如服飾、鞋子、玻璃與藝術製品等等，但我還是愛那種用手工一步步完成，賦予作品情感的感覺，那是被大量生產與機器製作之後，不能被附加的，而人其實是可以分辨的。

/產品圖片版權為Jewellery Theatre所有/

Joel Arthur Rosenthal－令人驚艷的珠寶藝術家

會認識Joel Arthur Rosenthal 是因為一本以他名字作為簡寫的JAR的書(上圖)，而認識了他的作品。

他是一位生於美國紐約的哈佛畢業生，卻因為對寶石的喜愛，在1976年的巴黎開了一間珠寶店，經過30多年的努力之後，他成了專為首富名流訂製珠寶的設計師，一年只做70~80作品，而這家隱身在Place Vendome的珠寶專賣店，沒有櫥窗也沒有固定的開放時間，卻依舊在業界有聲有色，光從2006年Christie's 拍賣會上賣出的一對由銀和18K玫瑰金製成，同時鑲有紅寶石和鑽石的黃玉耳環，拍出了710400美元(而拍賣前的估值僅為6-8萬美元)，實際成交價幾乎翻了十倍的狀況可看出來，他的作品可以在珠寶設計界舉足輕重的角色。

用鋁、金和藍寶石裝飾的羊頭

他的作品總是形象豐富，寶石色彩運用的出神入化，不同於一般的商業珠寶，一次量產千千萬萬件，相信他的作品每款要做到第二件都很不簡單，不但寶石稀有，造型獨特，在珠寶工藝上的突破與創新，真的無法用言語形容。

/產品圖片版權為Joel Arthur Rosenthal 所有/

珠寶的材質跟價格真的有那麼重要嗎？其實對我來說，珠寶跟畫作是一樣的，它被賦予的感情和意義，才是真正源遠流長的的東西。而珠寶設計師追求的，除了購買者心靈上的滿足以外，工藝技術上的精緻，和作品美感、立體感的呈現，更是不可或缺的重要部分。

珠寶就跟藝術品一樣，欣賞的角度不同，美的程度也不同。但我知道，珠寶是美麗的，是可以兼具傳統與創新、藝術和商業的藝術品，只要細細觀察，都可看出每個設計師對每件作品的用心。

在我心裡，珠寶它跟藝術品一樣，是絕對相等的。

I had an interview with a famous crystal glass company lately. When I talked to the director, he asked me a very interesting question.

"Why the jewelry and glass are so different, and you wanna work in the crystal glass company ?"

After he asked, I can't help wondering are the jewelry and glass really different? In my opinion, they are always the same thing. And here are my idols of jewelry area. Their design and works all show the jewelry is not only a kind of accessories but also a craft of art.

Elsa Peretti - the first jewelry designer I admired.

Elsa Peretti is the one of the most famous designers of Tiffany & Co. She designed many of Tiffany's best-selling items including the famous 'Open Heart' and 'Bean' pendant collections. But my favorite are the 'Bottle' pendant and 'Bone' collection.

"I hate that impeccable, perfectly perfect look, all matched and prearranged," Elsa Peretti said. "Style is to be simple." Her jewelry proved her points are right since 1974 she worked in Taffany & Co. Until now, her work is still modern and chic.

She was inspired by nature, and her jewelry often has circular and curvilineal shape. By her influence, most of Miss Maru's work often contains curve and nature elements. They are always my favorite subjects.

Jewellery Theatre - special jewelry style company.

Jewellery Theatre is the leading Russian jewellery house created by Irina Dorofeeva and Maxim Voznesenskiy. When I saw thier website at the first time, I can't believe that fine jewelry can have so many possibility. Is their jewelry just jewelry? The two designers are called jewellery artists by Moscow World Fine Art Fair. It's clear enough to show the art value of their works.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal - incredible jewelry artist.

I know about Joel Arthur Rosenthal from the book as his name called 'JAR'. Joel Arthur Rosenthal who was born in New York and works in Paris. He's well-known by 'JAR'. His work is sold in only one store in Paris 'Place Vendôme', sequestered from the outside world, and only make 70~80 pieces of work each year.

His jewelry is always colorful and amazing, whether the technic of jewelry making or intelligence of choosing gem. It's really a very high level for jewelry designer to achieve, and that's also my goal.

Therefore, after seeing those top jewelry designer and their works, I really can't tell the difference of jewelry and glass. Jewelry can be comercial or artistic by different ways rested on everyone's appreciation. And every jewelry is cerated by designer's mind and thought. That's why I think jewelry is equal to art.

To know more about designer..

Tiffany & Co.

Jewellery Theatre

蛭四感 / The Moods

蛭四感 / Sep.2006
銀．玻璃．紅銅．Led燈
Sterling silver, Glass, Copper, Led

從小時候開始，就非常喜歡玻璃這個素材。在國小放學的路上，常常看到被打碎的車窗玻璃掉了一地，閃閃發亮，然後就會開心的蹲在地上，挑選最亮的幾顆放進口袋帶回家。雖然手因此常常被割的流血，卻還是不能抵擋那陽光下一片片亮晶晶的玻璃對我招手。

喜歡玻璃於高溫中生成與塑造，冷卻後卻冰涼剔透的特性。每一件都是如此的獨特，不管是拉絲玻璃還是鑄造玻璃，顏色都不可能一模一樣，如同天然寶石一般，在世界上絕對是獨一無二的。

在2006年的4月，我發現了台灣工藝研究所開了＂脫腊鑄造玻璃多媒材燈飾設計＂的課程，即使遠在鶯歌上課，卻還是一鼓腦的報名，送出我的設計圖，等待消息。幸運的我也上了榜，如願的可以在每個禮拜六到鶯歌上一整天的研習課程。雖然每個禮拜六要一大早出門，先坐火車到桃園，再坐客運到上課的地方，但每次上課都感覺無比的快樂，再辛苦也甘之如飴。

這是我第一次接觸到玻璃的脫蠟鑄造，金屬的脫蠟鑄造因為工作的關係，跟之前學習蠟雕的經驗，已經非常熟悉了，但是玻璃的脫蠟鑄造，在沒有真正的接觸以前，仍然有一些理論跟實際的差距。例如中間需要自己做矽膠模、自己灌石膏模，在金屬的鑄造流程裡，是不需要自己動手做這個部分的，還要用沒接觸過的黃蠟塑型、搬運沉重的石膏模．．．等等，每個過程都是相當有趣的經驗。更重要的是，在這個課程裡，認識了許許多多在各行各業學有專攻的前輩，更是不可多得的機會，看他們熟練的工作技巧，真覺得自己有太多需要學習與加強的地方。

終於，再經過一個半月左右的課程與製作之後，我的玻璃部分完成了。本來以為玻璃製作完了，金屬的部分會比較容易製作，結果實際上並非如此。我選擇了當時熟悉的蠟雕技法，製作金屬的部分，但因為玻璃的體積比一般金工或珠寶作品大的許多，所以光要做出貼合的蠟就花了許多功夫。而製作出蠟雕元件之後，要翻成何種金屬也是一大難題，一般以脫蠟鑄造翻銀或銅的工廠並不能翻造如此大件的作品，而用翻砂鑄造，我的作品又雕的過薄。最後，終於被我找到可以翻造如此大件作品的銀工廠，花了一萬大洋完成了這件作品金屬部分。

然後再克服了需要加的燈光元件（Led），跟紫外線膠的使用方法之後，我的小蛭四隻終於到位了。而這次難能可貴的經驗，也已經成為了我生命裡不可取代的快樂時光之一，我會永遠記得那段頂著大太陽，在窯工廠和教室來回奔波，揮汗如雨製作作品的經驗。

而最後作品的好壞，真的不是最重要的，重要的是那一步步前進，完成作品的珍貴過程。

/ photo by 陳 志成 /

When I was a little girl, I love to pick up the glass which was broken to pieces on my way home from the school. Because the glass always shines like a gem by reflecting sunshine. I can't stop gathering the most beautiful ones and put them into my pocket, even I will be cut by them.

I like the property of the glass. It can be meltd like the water in 1,450°C, also can become solid in 450°C. It always is unique in the world because of it's color and the way it made by.

That's the reason why when I found the mix-media class of National Taiwan Craft Research Institute (NTCRI), I can't wait to join it. The class is about how to mix the light and casting glass. I need to make my design worked.

This is the first time I learned about casting technique of glass. It's a little different from the casting of metel. There are many processes I need to solve and do by myself. And I really learned a lot and had a lot of fun in this class. I also met so many masters who are really experts of craft. It is a precious experience and already became the happiest time of my life.

At the end, the goodness or the basness of the work doesn't mean anything to me. The most important thing is what I learned and what problems I solved in this class.

我的第一隻金工戒指 / My First Silversmithing

Untitled / Sep.2007

925 銀染黑處理

Oxidised Sterling silver

我的第一件金工作品，就在2007年的9月誕生了。

素白的銀片上鋸出了枝葉，手工拋光之後染黑處理，表面再拋亮，就成了層次分明的明暗面。

從沒有想過可以如此快速的完成一件金工作品，我想都要歸功於蠟雕的基礎和在工廠工作的種種學習，才能於兩天的時間，就完成這個作品。

從融銀－壓片－鋸形－敲圓－焊接，每一個步驟都是一個新的學習與體驗，而完成瞬間的成就，更是無法言喻。

那一刻，我想我是可以做金工的，而我也喜歡做金工。

I made my first silversmithing in Sep 2007.

I sawed the leaf shape on my sterling silver which was fused and bent myself. Then I oxidize the all surface, but planish the font. That's why it can shows two gradations.

I never thought that I can make my work in such a short time. It's must accredit to my foundation of wax carving and what I learned in present work.

Fuse, anneal, saw, bend, solder..every process is a whole new experience for me. And when I done my work, I really feel I did my achievement.

In the moment, I fell in love with the silversmithing.

真實的信念

因為對自己的想法有信心，所以踏入了珠寶這個行業
因為對自己的作品有信心，所以不斷的學習如何製作
因為對人生的目的有信心，所以辛苦的堅持不讓自己墮落

相信有一天這些信念可以帶來成功的果實
不愧於自己，不愧於生命珍貴的一分一秒
漸漸的走向我希望擁有的一滴滴純粹的快樂
Stay Hungry , Stay Foolish
I say, Stay Instinctive


Apple CEO Steve Jobs對史丹佛畢業生演講摘錄：Stewart跟他的團隊出版了好幾期的《 Whole Earth Catalog》，然後很自然的，最後出了停刊號。當時是 1970年代中期，我正是你們現在這個年齡的時候。在停刊號的封底，有張清晨鄉間小路的照片，那種你四處搭便車冒險旅行時會經過的鄉間小路。在照片下印了行小字： 求知若飢，虛心若愚（Stay Hungry , Stay Foolish）。那是他們親筆寫下的告別訊息，我總是以此自許。當你們畢業，展開新生活，我也以此祝福你們。